An Island (Almost)Frozen In Time

Have you heard of this place?

Folegandros

Tucked away in the southern Cyclades, Folegandros is one of Greece’s best-kept secrets - an unspoiled oasis seemingly frozen in time that feels a world away from the hustle and bustle of Santorini and Mykonos. With only around 700 residents, Its charm lies in what it doesn't have: no crowded beaches, no endless souvenir shops, and not a tourist trap in sight, (well maybe one or two), Folegandros continues to fly under the radar.

Folegandros whispers to travelers seeking authenticity, offering the slow rhythms of Greek island life that make you forget what day it is, (FYI it’s Wednesday).

Transportation isn’t regular, even though it is close to Santorini, ferry service remains quite limited and sporadic, which may or may not be why the island isn’t especially touristy. You will need to take a ferry to get to the island. Tickets can be booked via Ferryhopper. 

If you are a 22-year-old looking to party til the sun rises and then sets and then rises again, this is not the place for you. Folegandros is for the slow traveler, the romantic, and the one who wants to disconnect. The most convenient location to stay on the island would have to be Chora. You will be close to most of the food options and public transport, making it easy to get around.

Quick History Lesson:

The island's name is believed to have mythological origins( In Greece? I know, shocking) possibly derived from a son of King Minos of Crete. However, some suggest it comes from the Phoenician word "phelekgundari," meaning "stony land," which aptly describes the island's terrain.

Folegandros was liberated and incorporated into the newly formed Greek state following the Greek War of Independence in 1821.

In the 20th century, the island served as a place of exile for political prisoners. This practice continued until 1970. Since the 1970s, Folegandros has experienced significant changes due to the growth of tourism

Throughout its history, Folegandros has maintained its distinct character, shaped by its strategic location in the Aegean, its periods of rule under various powers, and its use as a place of exile. The island's rich past is reflected in its archaeological sites, traditional villages, and cultural heritage.

Accommodation on Folegandros ranges from quaint family-run guesthouses to boutique hotels perched on cliffs.

Accommodation:

  • Gundari - Perched atop a cliff, this luxurious retreat offers a secluded escape. Reached via a rugged dirt road winding through arid farmland, yet the town is just a quick 10-minute drive away.

  • Anemomilos - A family-owned and operated boutique hotel that has been around for over 30 years. Sitting on a hillside, it’s only minutes away from Chora, the main village.

  • Anemi - A beautifully designed hotel with all the amenities one could hope for to relax & unwind.

  • Pasithea Folegandros - With incredible sea views, this place appeals to travelers seeking a simple, sun-sand-and-sea type of vacation.

Food!

The food alone is worth the trip. Make a beeline for Pounta in Chora to try matsata, a hearty homemade pasta dish topped with slow-cooked rabbit or rooster (yes, you read that right!).

If you want food with a view (I mean why wouldn’t you) check out Pasithea for fresh seafood and a view that could make you choke on your octopus (please chew slowly).

Papalagi, Chic Restaurant, and Piatsa are 3 more great options. Foodwise there are 3 different restaurants but what they do have in common is fresh delicious food, amazing ambiance, and memories that you will take with you for years to come.

Here is a full list of restaurants in Folegandros, even though the island is small there is no shortage of amazing Greek restaurants, from high-end stuff to mom-and-pop shops where you will get authentic Greek food.

Folegandros might be small, but it’s packed with attractions. A must-see is the Church of Panagia, which sits on top of the hill and rewards those willing to hike with unbeatable panoramic views of the island. Wander through the winding streets of Chora, one of the prettiest villages in the Cyclades, and get lost in its whitewashed alleyways. If you have a bit more of an adventurous spirit, there’s a trail that leads to Katergo Beach - one of the island’s most beautiful and secluded beaches, with turquoise crystal-clear waters.

Katergo Beach

If Katergo isn’t on your bucket list (it should be) here are 4 more incredible beaches to explore.

The short and long of it is that Folegandros is the kind of place you go when you want to unplug, unwind, and actually feel like you’re in Greece, not a tourist destination on steroids. It’s where the sun sets on empty beaches, the food is cooked by locals who love what they do, and the pace of life is slow enough for you to finally catch your breath. With the Greek government’s new measures to curb over-tourism, we believe that this island will stay a hidden, under-the-radar gem for many years to come.

See you next week!

Happy Travels! 🗺️